With Greater Kailash in New Delhi doubling as a magnet for restaurant-goers for years, the bustling M-Block market’s latest offering, Amaltas, has its own serene way of slowing the pace over delicious Indian tapas and innovative drinks. By Bayar Jain
Every summer when the sun peaks to 50 degree Celsius, New Delhi is blessed with a calming yellow shower. Bright Amaltas blooms, commonly known as the golden shower tree, line the pathways while the grey tarmac is stained with sunny hues. As the colder months settle in, these soothing views recede into the backdrop…unless you visit Amaltas, an Indian tapas and bar located in Greater Kailash’s iconic M-Block market. With a slight nip in the air and an appetite ready to devour, I visit the market’s latest offering for a nostalgic trip down summer lane.
Review of Amaltas—Indian Tapas & Bar
Ambience
As I climb up the stairs towards the restaurant on the first floor, I eye the greens on the way — both, the paint on the walls and the many plants cozied in the corner. Upon entering, the same colour tones greet me. To my right is an open counter done up in green and yellow checkered mosaics, and bordered by fresh plants tipping down from overhead. The other side, complete with picture windows, displays views of the verdant greens beyond. Indoors, vibrant yellow hues, earthy-toned wooden tables and cane chairs interspersed with mismatched single couches and floral pillows complete the setup.
The walls, too, radiate similar earthy vibes. Picture framed modern art paintings, a pinecone-inspired hanging wall decor, and—my favourite—the Amaltas mural. This picturesque wall is painted with bright yellow flowers and colourful birds backdropped by a serene blue cloudy sky. While the blue sofas against this wall are great for relaxing—akin to lazing under a real Amaltas tree—it is too small to savour a complete meal. I pick a table by the window instead.
Food
The menu at Amaltas extends up to 13 pages, barring beverages which has a three-page section dedicated to itself. Each dish piques my interest. While some tap into a diner’s nostalgia (think onion samosa, paneer pasanda, dhaba dal, to name a few), others tip on the experimental side. Dishes like buckwheat and mushroom pancakes, Mangalorean cauliflower roast, LGP chicken tikka, green pea and Bandel cheese kulcha are some examples of the latter lot.
Savoury Desserts
With so much on offer, I let Chef Udit Maheshwari, owner of Amaltas, lead the show and wow me with his picks. Out comes Jalebi Chaat, the chef’s rendition on the sweet dessert turned savoury. In this version, the crispy jalebis ditch the usual sugary syrup and pave the way for spiced yoghurt, tamarind and mint chutney, and crunchy zero sev instead. The colourful riot is surprisingly delicious, with the chutneys lending the dish a beautifully balanced dance of sweet and tangy.
Similarly, the Kalimpong Cheese Tart also switches things up. The custard in the well-baked shortcrust tart oozes with gooey cheese (“we source it from Kalimpong, West Bengal,” says Chef Maheshwari). While a little eggy for my taste, the tangy and slightly chunky tomato chutney makes up for the miss.
Nibbles and Small Plates
Black Chickpea Kebab is up next. Its saffron flatbread, much like Punjab’s famous matthi, is nostalgic. But the smooth, creamy texture of the kebabs sitting on these bite-sized crisps takes this humble dish many notches higher. A special mention to the apple salad — it may have been a side I wouldn’t have imagined with kebabs, but I loved every bit of it!
When in Delhi, it’s almost a crime to not sample momos. At Amaltas, this loved snack is given a twist. The server brings a bowl of humble dumplings swimming in a pool of hot brown-ish broth. “Presenting Sweetcorn Momos with Lebu Broth,” the server informs. The steamed dumplings are soft and packed with sweetcorn kernels. The Gondhoraj Lebu (a cross between a lime and a mandarin orange, ordinarily found towards Eastern India) broth is tangy, as expected. The dumplings and broth eaten together, however, are sublime. The tanginess of the broth cuts through the sweet dumplings, leaving my palate wanting more.
My companion, a meat-eater, is served the Kachampuli Chicken Wings instead. The bone-in chicken wings comes doused in generous servings of kachampuli (a dark vinegar native to Coorg) and curry leaf sauce, while the meat—I’m told—is cooked nice and tender, without letting the juices dry out too much. This is followed by Khoja Keema Samosa, and Bacon Ghughra. While the former is inspired by the Khoja-Ismaili community of Gujarat and comes packed with minced goat and lentils, the latter encases bacon in the short pastry. Both, I’m told, are yummy; the keema variation, better.
Large Plates
Although Amaltas celebrates tapas-inspired dishes — and brilliantly so!— the restaurant has larger plates on offer, too. Out comes Broccoli Makhani paired with a pudina paratha for me, and Tamarind Fish Curry for my date. Chef Maheshwari reveals, “The broccoli is our take on the famous butter chicken.” Intrigued, I dive right in.
The malai marinade on the huge floret is creamy. The slight roast and char adds another dimension to the dish. Rightfully so, the orange-ish gravy visually reminds of butter chicken. By taste, it’s tangy and loaded with herbs and spices. While the soft pudina paratha is an apt accompaniment for the dish, I find myself scooping up the gravy and veggie virgin — it’s that good!
The Tamarind Fish Curry, served with appam, compels a similar review. The cook of the pan-smeared tilapia, I’m told, is perfect, while the tamarind-oyster sauce drizzled over gives it a tangy punch. Despite not being fond of fish, my date rates this dish highest for the night.
Dessert
With full stomachs, and greed for more, we bite into our dessert: Chocolate and Jaggery pot au Crème. And boy, I’m glad we did! Made using organic Indian chocolate infused with jaggery, and hints of coffee and orange, this sweet ending is divine. The slight bitter in the cocoa is a happy touch, while its creamy texture is delightful. The fact that it has jaggery in its makings, instead of sugar, lessens the guilt, too.
Beverages
Where there is tapas, there are drinks — and Amaltas understands this! Like its food, the drinks menu also inches towards the experimental side. I try the Asafoetida Sour, and Konkan Sour.
Konkan Sour takes its inspiration from India’s tropical coast, and comes complete with a homemade Kokum syrup, Himalayan pink salt, and kaffir lime. The cameo of pineapple juice in its making, however, is most inspiring. The delicate balance of the sour-sweet Kokum and tart pineapple can be hard to pull off. Here, it is perfect.
The Asafoetida Sour is just as skilful. After all, it’s not everyday you find hing in your drinks. More so when the drink also has popcorn and yuzu in its making! However, this drink leaves me with a feeling of warm and fuzzy, despite being a cold beverage.
And that’s exactly what my evening at Amaltas feels like: warm and wholesome, akin to sitting under the shade of an Amaltas tree.
Details of Amaltas
Address
M/25, 1st Floor, M Block Market, Greater Kailash 2 (GK 2), New Delhi
Timings
12 noon to 11:00 pm
Price for two
INR 2,000 plus taxes
For reservations
Call: +919811021428
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