Tiamo at Conrad Bengaluru bags brownie points for more than just its refreshing take on Mediterranean classics—the restaurant is top dog in sustainable practices and stunning lake views as well. By Siddharth Singh
WHAT WE LOVED
For a major hotel to collaborate with local producers is not exactly de rigueur; after all, they have budgets and resources to import cheeses, vegetables, and meats. But as the hotel industry embraces the sustainability movement, we were thrilled to lunch at Tiamo at Conrad Bengaluru, a Mediterranean restaurant. Here, our entrée was a paragon of pared down simplicity: a marvellous burrata served with balsamic gel, quinoa cracker, and tomato. Assuming the cheese was imported, we countered the Conrad’s charming press attaché who proved us wrong by calling in the executive chef, Praveen Shetty. “The burrata is made by a priest in Bengaluru,” Shetty deadpanned. Father Michael, as the priest is known among the foodie circles, is a Vallombrosian monk and liturgical scholar, who moved back to India after many years in Italy. He brings with him secrets of the finest cheese production he encountered in the country, which the Conrad is wise to harness. The chef was also quick to point out that the tomatoes were from local farms, and the Conrad works consciously with smaller organic producers to source their greens from Ooty and Mysuru.
The amuse bouche of cucumber and goat cheese cannelloni had a flavourful pop, never intruding on the courses to come, efficient enough to rouse appetite. The Garlic Prawns in chilli and olive oil was elegant, minimal, with the prawns holding their juices and flavours. Our Butternut Squash Bisque needed life—perhaps this is reliant on also how the squash is cooked (we had a memorable one at Jose Avillez’s restaurant in Lisbon that had been cooked on an open fire). The Homemade Ricotta and Spinach Ravioli charmed us—their tomato basil emulsion gave the ricotta texture without overwhelming it, more like a basting than a sauce. The warm chocolate cake is a staple on most menus now—we are a bit bored, to be honest—but Tiamo uses 82 per cent dark chocolate, which gives this dessert a glittering edge over the others.
WHY WE WOULD RETURN
While Bengaluru and the belt of Indira Nagar has an unusual selection of restaurants, the Conrad has a stunning, unbeatable view. As you gaze out from a private gazebo, your eyes coast past the frangipani only to be dazzled by their outdoor heated infinity pool. We’d come back in a hurry for the chef’s brilliance but also for this ravishing rooftop restaurant overlooking Ulsoor Lake.
Cost for two: INR 2,500 plus taxes
Address: Conrad Hotel, 25/3, Kensington Road, Ulsoor, Bengaluru
Reservation: +91 8022144444