Native to Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, Archana Jaju started her eponymous label when fashion was not so much of a buzzword, 25 years ago. Coming from a family of weavers, she holds a special place for handloom in her heart and a knack for traditional design. Reflecting on her journey so far, Jaju talks of courage, creativity, and craftsmanship. By Rashima Nagpal
T+L India: Your label has been around for over 25 years. Tell us how the brand started and how it has evolved over time.
Archana Jaju: The beginning of my design journey dates back to my high school days. I was always eager and excited to attend any festive events so that I could design my clothes and wear them. Later, I started transforming my mom’s old sarees into the styles I wanted to wear. When I look back, it’s these little memories that shaped my passion for design. At an early age, I was married into a family of handloom textiles. But what motivated me to start my label was my father-in-law. With his guidance and freedom, I was able to freely express my creativity. Over these years, I’ve discovered my signature design style. I’m always striving to represent Indian traditional crafts with my personal touch added to them.
T+L India: What was it like pursuing a career as a fashion designer, back in the day?
Archana Jaju: I believe fashion is a form of expression. And expression doesn’t require a degree per se. Back in the day, more than education, fashion was something that naturally flowed. It was about showcasing one’s talent and creativity.
T+L India: Women who inspire(d) you?
Archana Jaju: My biggest inspiration is my mother. The way she’s handled everything in her life with utmost strength and resilience is something I truly admire.
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T+L India: Can you give us an insight into your creative process? How do you visualise and then execute a collection?
Archana Jaju: I firmly believe teamwork makes the dream work. Every time I have an idea, I sketch it out and present it to my design team. After discussion and gathering everyone’s opinion, we tweak and shape our collection based on feedback. Everyone always has something new to bring to the table, and that’s the best way to understand where there’s scope for improvement too.
T+L India: Where do you look for creative inspiration?
Archana Jaju: My deepest inspirations always come from the ‘process’ of creating. I think there’s so much beauty in it too. It feels like magic the way something is created out of nothing. Apart from that, everything around me is a source of inspiration. Whether it’s my personal transformation and experiences or elements like nature, colours, poetry and more.
T+L India: What does fashion mean to you?
Archana Jaju: For me, fashion is a means to express my identity. Being comfortable in what I wear is always of key importance to me.
T+L India: Coming from a family of weavers, and then running a brand that has handloom and artisanal work at its core, how do you think Indian heritage in fashion can be best preserved?
Archana Jaju: I think today, Indian handloom is going through a movement of revival. But what we have to remember is the roots of Indian crafts and handlooms are our artisans. If we give due respect and care to our kaarigars, it’s the best manner to preserve our crafts and heritage.
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T+L India: What are some traditional Indian styles/weaves you love working with and why?
Archana Jaju: I have a soft corner for Anarkalis and Kurtas. I’d say they’re my USP too. We have various handloom craft clusters in India and we’d love to incorporate as many as we can. But majorly, we work with Chanderi since it’s also our native place.
T+L India: Which artisanal communities in India have you been working with?
Archana Jaju: We’re working with various craft clusters in India. To name a few, Kalamkari from Srikalahasti, Bandhani from Kutch (Gujarat), Chikankari from Lucknow (Uttar Pradesh), Parsi Gara from Kolkata (West Bengal).
T+L India: Any lesser-known places and artisanal communities that you’d like to recommend for people to explore?
Archana Jaju: I feel extremely proud to be a part of a country that’s culturally rich in handicrafts and textiles. Since our native place is Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, I’d strongly recommend everyone to explore it. Madhya Pradesh is also rich in other textiles like batik work.
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T+L India: They say people make places. Does that resonate with you?
Archana Jaju: I completely agree. It’s not really the place but the company that makes it worth it. Some people look for a beautiful place, whereas others make the place itself beautiful.
T+L India: What are your views on fast fashion?
Archana Jaju: Fast fashion today is driving massive turnovers because of the price they offer. For people who love trend-based, seasonal clothing, fast fashion is what they go for.
T+L India: What is your vision for Archana Jaju the label?
Archana Jaju: Our label rides on the pillar of Indian culture and craftsmanship. Our vision is to make Archana Jaju an international brand with strong Indian artisanal roots.
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T+L India: A word of advice for young women aspiring to be fashion designers?
Archana Jaju: Three things I’d like to tell them is:
- Be fearless
- Always know your audience
- Don’t be disheartened by the hurdles in your journey
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