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Trips Say Hello To The Pohjola Route, The Birthplace Of Finland
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Say Hello To The Pohjola Route, The Birthplace Of Finland

The Pohjola Route in Finland blends country’s finest landscapes, from reindeer farms to riverine islands, majestic alpine forests and fells.

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By: Lakshmi Sharath Published: Mar 28, 2024 07:00 PM IST

Say Hello To The Pohjola Route, The Birthplace Of Finland
The husky farm in Syote trains huskies to lead safaris into the wild during winte

The choppy seas tossed our boat high up in the air as the roaring waves whipped up a frenzy of foam right across our faces. But in a moment, it was all over. The anger melted as the calm waves gently rocked the boat, and we saw the shore in the distant horizon. We were a motley bunch of travellers in a lone boat surrounded by the azure waters of the Gulf of Bothnia, cruising from the coastal town of Kalajoki to the uninhabited Maakalla Island in Finland.

It was our first day exploring the Pohjola or the Northern Route, a microcosm of authentic Finland, also dubbed as the birthplace of the Nordic country. Surrounded by 900 kilometres of fells and forests, there are over ten pristine destinations along the scenic route in the Bothnian Bay, around the fascinating city of Oulu, and Kalajoki with its sandy shores is one of them.

It was windy as we landed at the lost island of Maakalla, which has been autonomous since the 18th century with its own independent rules and laws. The rugged landscape seemed straight out of a fairy tale, dotted with about 40 wooden huts of fishermen, painted in hues of red and white, with skulls of seals hanging on the doors. Beckoned by a quaint Pauper Statue asking for donations, I stumbled upon a quaint wooden church, shaped like a boat, where most of the residents had been married. A tiny museum, a tower, and a petite old lighthouse perched on a pile of rocks added to the romantic vibe. Time virtually stood still on this island, which was deserted except for a smattering of residents who came here during the summers.

Lost in Landscapes

Makalla Island Pohjola Route
Travellers can take a ferry from Makalla Island to Kalajoki.

Steeped in folklore, the Pohjola Route is a meandering road through beaches, wetlands, alpine forests and fells, riverine islands, archipelagos, sand dunes, and picturesque towns and villages. Watered by over 15 rivers, the trail takes you into the wetlands of Liminka, thronged by birds and birdwatchers. The Southernmost fells of Finland, Syote; the archipelago of Hailuoto; and the Rokua UNESCO Global Geopark are among other hotspots.

brewery
Hailuodon Panimo Oy is Finland’s first organic brewery.

At the heart of the Pohjola Route is the quirky and ancient town of Oulu, known for its Air Guitar World Championships and whose symbol is the Toripolliisi or the Chubby Policeman watching over the Market Square. Standing in front of the City Hall is a set of 32 miniature bronze sculptures chronicling the ‘passage of time’ or Aan Kulku as they are called in Finnish. Each character represents a historical connection to the coastal city. Once the world’s tar capital, the city has morphed into a technology hub, and has been selected as the European Capital of Culture for 2026. We visited the towering cathedral, an ancient castle, and even a historic observation tower that has been nicknamed the Booze Tower, as it was where the sailors socialised over drinks.

Nallikari beach
The writer at the Nallikari Lighthouse on the Nallikari Beach in Oulu.

As we explored Oulu, peeling off its layers, we discovered little stories surrounding it. We were at the picturesque riverine island of Pikisaari, an art district. Pikisaari, translated to Pitch Island, was once filled with old workshops, sawmills, and shipyards, but the idyllic wooden buildings house studios of several artists and artisans who live in this atmospheric old quarter. We also tried our hand at making Lovi, small wooden creations from the highest Finnish quality birch wood.

Oulu is also the city meant for the outdoors, we realised as we headed to Nordic Riviera, the seaside resort town with its long sandy beach and a towering lighthouse painted white against the blue skies. During winter, it is frozen and is popular for fishing tours.

Hailuoto Island

The Maakalla Island Church at Pohjola Route
The Maakalla Island Church is a quaint wooden church shaped like a boat.

Our next destination was the archipelago of Hailuoto Island in the Bay of Bothnia. Lost in a mesmerising landscape of white sandy beaches and verdant forests, with little islets for birdwatching and fishing, we realised why the Pohjola Route is called Finland in a nutshell. We hiked into the lush pine forests filled with white lichen in search of an acoustic art installation called Hailuoto Organum nestled deep inside the woods. It is an installation of three interconnecting concrete domes designed by acoustic artist Lukas Kühne. Another ethereal experience was a coastal walk on planks where we took in the stunning natural scenery. But the best views were from the beacon tower of the 19th-century lighthouse.

Lighthouse
The 19th-century Marjaniemi Lighthouse in the Gulf of Bothnia.

A visit to Hailuoto is not complete if you don’t have a glass of beer at Hailuodon Panimo Oy, the first organic brewery in Finland where German style unfiltered beers are brewed with locally grown ingredients.

Finally, we found ourselves in one of the most surreal destinations, as the beaches gave way to mountains and the coastal roads and dense birch, and pine forests led to the mystical fells with reindeer and husky farms. Syote National Park located in the heart of the fell is a winter wonderland known for skiing and snowboarding but it was equally breathtaking in autumn, with biking and hiking trails. We went berry picking in the wild and took in the 360° views of Iso Syote from the namesake hotel atop the hill. Later in the day, we were at the husky farm, home to almost hundred huskies, where we spent time petting almost every dog before enjoying a traditional lunch in a kota or a rotund teepee. Training had begun for these huskies who would lead safaris into the wild during winter.

Wild Side

Pikisaari art district at Pohjola Route
A mural at the Pikisaari art district.

It started raining as we drove through the misty woods of Iso Syote to the panoramic Panuma village. And amidst the dark reaches of the woodlands, we were greeted by Napsu, the reindeer, showing off his stack of antlers, while his little owner Sylvi Oinas stood with her father Lauri Oinas. Napsu was not the only reindeer here; soon, he was followed by a herd and we fed them and walked along with them into the Poro-Panuma Reindeer Farm.

Poro-Panuma Reindeer Farm is one of the oldest in the region.
Poro-Panuma Reindeer Farm is one of the oldest in the region.

Panuma is one of the oldest hamlets that is into reindeer husbandry—Lauri Oinas and Sylvie are the seventh and eighth generation family members who manage the farm. As we walked along, we learnt that most of the herd were out in the forests and would return in winter. The herder communities are fiercely protective of their herd and there are special earmarks to identify them in case they are lost. Reindeers are considered sacred and are part of the mystical and cultural fabric of the people. One of the legends of the Sami tribes say that a constellation in the night sky depicts a hunter who has his bow aimed at the ‘cosmic reindeer’. They believe that if he succeeds, that will be the end of this world.

Oulu at Pohjola Route
A set of 32 miniature bronze sculptures in Oulu chronices the ‘passage of time’.

But on that night, the jewelled sky seemed magical for a moment with tiny stars adding to the lustre. Every minute felt like an eternity as we waited with bated breath for the inky darkness to turn into shades of green. But just as it seemed like the sky would open to show us the dance of the Northern Lights, the clouds threw a foggy veil. “Well, we are caught in a little tussle between the Shaman and Santa,” said our guide, Martta Tervonen with a laugh to lighten the moment. It was believed that the Shaman, angry with Santa had briefly captured the Northern Lights so that Santa couldn’t see in the dark and fly on his reindeer.

The magic of the Pohjola Route had left an indelible mark and I just sent a postcard to Santa, requesting for another trip to see the Northern Lights soon. I hope he grants my wish.

Planning a Trip to Pohjola Route 

Getting there

Finnair operates regular connecting flights from New Delhi and Mumbai to Oulu Airport.

Stay

Kalajoki: Santa’s Resort and Spa Hotel Sani is a full-service spa hotel with a sea view and nature trails. Doubles from INR 9,737
Syote: Hotel Iso Syote atop a hillock at is a great destination to see the Northern Lights from your own rooms. Doubles from INR 18,121

All photographs courtesy of Lakshmi Sharath

Related: Best Places To Visit In Finland; From The World’s Sauna Capital To Santa Claus Village

Written By

Lakshmi Sharath

Lakshmi Sharath

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