The capital city of Georgia, Tbilisi is not new to attention, coming into its own after the collapse of the Soviet Union. Once on the erstwhile Silk Road Tbilisi was a vital trading hub with those who passed through leaving their imprint on its culture, cuisine and architecture. It continues to keep changing, its present transformation powered by a group of creatives and intellectuals drawn to it by its unequivocal charm and hipster attitude. With an ever-evolving dining, art and design scene, there’s always something happening in Tbilisi.
Its Old Town harks back to the very beginning of the city with tiny streets that curl past sulphur bathhouses and caravanserais leading to open squares and broad avenues lined with Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings. In other parts of the city Soviet-era structures have been given a new lease of life as hotels, co-working spaces, galleries and nightclubs. Turn a corner in Tbilisi and it’s likely you’ll come face-to-face with an architectural style staggeringly beautiful yet incongruous. Tbilisi is a sum of its many disparate parts that come together in perfect sync and it’s here wherein lies its real charm.
From the beginning
Strung along the Mtkvari River, hemmed in by low-lying hillsides Tbilisi’s Old Town is a jumble of pastel-hued wooden homes punctuated with conical-spired churches. Built into the mountains, the homes sport the traditional Georgian wrap-around balconies that feature intricate wooden carvings. Although this is the most touristy part of Tbilisi it offers a wonderful insight into its history and sits in perfect contrast to the newer parts that lie beyond. For the best views of this collision walk up to the walls of the 4th century Narikala Fortress.
Like them or dislike them there’s no ignoring the metal and glass structures around Rike Park. The bow-shaped glass and steel pedestrian Peace Bridge connecting the Old Town to the park is one of several new structures built soon after independence to shake off the cultural stagnation that gripped the country during Soviet rule. Designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi and French lighting designer Philippe Martinaud, the bridge lights up with thousands of LED lights closer to sunset that stay on till just after sunrise. Across in Rike Park, another striking addition is the twin tubular Music Theatre and Exhibition Hall. A short walk away, sticking to the same theme is the overlapping mushroom-shaped Public Service Hall.
Soviet-era architecture leaned towards wide use of concrete, angular lines and stark design, and one of the best examples of this lies on the outskirts of Tbilisi – the unusual Jenga block-like tower of the Bank of Georgia building. Built in 1975 as the offices of the Ministry of Highways, it lay unused for a few years till it was acquired by the Bank of Georgia. Extensive renovations later it stands tall as a striking example of Brutalist architecture fused with constructivism.
On a museum crawl
Branching out from Freedom Square, Shota Rustaveli Avenue named after Georgia’s beloved 12th-century poet, is home to the parliament building, the serene Kashveti Church and a slew of museums. The largest of these the National Museum of Georgia houses a number of important exhibits of which a particular highlight is the Treasury which showcases some fine examples of gold jewellery. Not a museum but a building worth a pause is the Rustaveli National Theatre which is a mix of Baroque and Rococo styles.
Further ahead, pop into the Museum of Fine Arts housed in a grey Neo-classical building to see 3,500 artworks of more than 100 Georgian artists. In a city that loves its graffiti, it’s only fitting that it currently hosts an exhibition titled ‘Banksy: Birth of an Icon’ curated by Steve Lazarides. The exhibits trace British graffiti artist Banksy’s journey from street art to museum walls.
A few steps away amongst a bevvy of statuesque facades, the mustard and burgundy Tbilisi Opera stands out with its exquisite Moorish design. Built by German architect Victor Schröter the building is as magnificent inside as it is outside with kaleidoscopic stained glass windows and ornate chandeliers.
Across the road from Tbilisi’s Museum of Modern Art lookout for a flight of stairs leading up to the State Academy of Arts building on Griboedov Street. The stairs paved with ceramic tiles by local artists are a popular spot for photography. An institution that counts amongst its alumni several of Georgia’s notable artists, it opens its doors to visitors to view its incredibly beautiful mirror halls and miniature paintings.
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Feeding the soul
Salobie Bia
Having moved from its modest location in a quiet residential neighbourhood, Salobie Bia now occupies the basement of the Rustaveli National Theatre. The number of simple wooden tables has increased and there’s a lot more Georgian art and assorted bric-a-brac around, but the brightly lit restaurant still retains its essence of bringing to the table simple Georgian food cooked with excellent local ingredients and served with a smile.
The limited menu serves up Georgian staples and a highlight is their creamy lobio – a bean stew cooked in an earthen pot, served with mchadi, a piece of earthy local cornbread and pickled vegetables. In a city with an ever-evolving dining scene, Salobie Bia stands out for being so effortlessly stylish yet homely – a perfect ode to Tbilisi.
Cafe Littera
A meal at Cafe Littera is as much a feast for the stomach as it is for the eyes. Set in the gardens of the dreamy Art Nouveau mansion, once the site of many historical events, today known as the Writers’ House, the building is a hub for writers and artists alike. Reserve a table under enormous pine trees to enjoy Georgian chef Tekuna Gachechiladze’s cuisine which gives local dishes a contemporary twist.
Amo Rame
Those in the know, know where to find the simple blue door of Amo Rame – one of Tbilisi’s favourite art cafes. High on the cottagecore aesthetic, the small foyer leads to a patchwork of rooms adorned with vintage furniture, lamps and art. A small family-run cafe – expect homemade Georgian dishes including khinkali: Georgia’s popular soupy parcels.
Café Stamba & Pink Bar
It’s easy to walk past Hotel Stamba and not give it a second glance given its staid industrial exterior. Inside, however, it’s a whole different story. The former publishing house has been reimagined into a hotel, co-working space and cafe-cum-bar. Brutalist elements such as exposed concrete columns, beams and parts of machinery define the central atrium. A profusion of greenery from the basement reaching upwards gives the feel of nature having reclaimed a once-abandoned space. Floor-to-ceiling bookshelves cordon off the reception and co-working space beyond.
A lot of the action happens in and around Stamba Cafe. Although called a cafe it’s a collection of different dining experiences rolled into one – a restaurant that serves Georgian and international cuisine, a small section dedicated to Asian dishes, and a roastery that serves up good coffee and delectable chocolate made in-house.
The most eye-catching of all sections is the part covered and part open Pink Bar. High on retro glam, art deco elements add to the industrial skeleton creating a space that’s meant to be spoken of.
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Walk around the cafe to the rooms at the back that resemble a functioning factory and watch staff busy working on chocolate or tending to futuristic urban farms. Suitably titled Space Farms the micro greens, leafy greens and edible flowers used in the restaurant are grown here.
Browse through the carefully curated products in the in-house store Chaos where most of the upcycled products are created from material discarded from the hotel.
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Tabidze 24
Set in a painstakingly restored 1896 mansion, Tabidze 24 on Galaktion Street is an easy contender for being the most visually stunning location for a coffee, glass of wine or a scrumptious plate of pasta in the city.
Compact Coffee Place overlooking the street makes fantastic specialty coffee and the adjoining Che’ri Pasta Bar serves up a host of fantastic Italian dishes. Take the spiral staircase up to the stylish Snobs Bar, a small space that’s big on mood and ambience. Look out for original plasterwork, windows and the incredible ceiling graced by an Aria lamp by Zaha Hadid.
Lolita
As you walk past a black metallic gate that leads to a small passageway nothing quite prepares you for the large cavernous courtyard that houses Lolita, an urban-style kitchen and eatery on Tamar Chovelidze Street. Don’t forget to look up at the building facing the long open kitchen – a fine example of Tbilisi’s carved wooden balcony. Grab a spot on the communal table on one side or find a more secluded spot in other sections of the garden. The all-international menu includes a variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Their vegan burger is sublime!
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A design fix
Fabrika
Occupying a standard grey box-like building typical of Soviet times, Fabrika is a testament to all that has changed in the city.
The former Soviet-era sewing factory in a once gritty neighbourhood is now a buzzy hostel and co-working space.
Its large central yard – overrun with creepers and graffiti – where all the action is, is home to cafes, bars, stores, a ceramic studio and a barbershop. In the evenings under a canopy of colourful buntings, lights and a shiny disco ball, the space turns into a lively, cheery spot to hang around for a good conversation, meal or drink. A changing roster of events keeps things exciting.
Gallery 27
For a wide assortment of souvenirs and products handmade in Georgia by local designers from Tbilisi and beyond, head to Gallery 27 on Asatiani Street.
Owned by Nino Kvavilashvili, a batik artist, Gallery 27 is a great place to pick up one-of-a-kind ceramics, hand-painted fabrics, diaries, magnets, stoles and woven garments.
Just about everywhere in Tbilisi
A never-ending maze of crumbling buildings, intriguing facades of peeling plaster, rusting iron balconies and courtyards with drying laundry and climbing grape trellises, the best way to take in all this and more, is to wander the streets of Tbilisi. Pick a starting point and let your eyes lead you. A great place to begin is Sololaki. Expect the unexpected because that’s the defining spirit of Tbilisi.
Getting there
Indigo flies from New Delhi to Tbilisi directly.
Visa
Indian citizens with a valid US or Schengen visa can enter Georgia without a visa. A new e-visa policy processes visas within five days
The best places to stay
There are hotels, Air BnBs and hostels to suit every type of budget. The Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel has a great location on Shota Rustaveli Avenue and is within walking distance of many museums, Freedom Square and the Old Town. The 236 rooms come with all modern amenities and 10 of these are handicap-accessible. Their in-house award-winning Anne Semonin Spa offers treatments with splendid views of the city.
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Related: 15 Best Places To Visit In Georgia — From Charming Mountain Towns To Sandy Beaches
Written By
Chaitali Patel
Chaitali Patel is happiest under a tree. She's passionate about all things travel and the environment. When not planning her own trips she's more than happy to go through other's itineraries offering ideas and suggestions. To reduce the amount of coffee she was drinking she took to tea and is now addicted to that. When she's not reading she's probably ..Read More
