Exclusivity stands out, especially when you’re wearing a custom-made suit stitched by some of the most revered tailors in the world. Here, a much-coveted appointment may take you two months of wait-time! By Deepali Sharma
Naples is the hub for bespoke fashion. One brand that prides itself in traditional tailoring techniques is Rubinacci. Once an old-curved front shop, Rubinacci has now turned into a bespoke clothing giant in Italy. Cut entirely by hand, a true bespoke at Rubinacci takes 54-man hours to develop a paper pattern cut to design a suit especially for you. His list of famous elite clientele includes the likes of filmmaker Vittorio De Sica. Claiming ‘Elegance as the Secret for Timeless Style’ Rubinacci made his mark with his radical ideas of unlined unstructured casual jackets.
A brand that promises Savile Row quality in Yorkshire, Desmond Merrion is a big name for their handcrafted suits in London. With the best material and lining used, Desmond Merrion can upgrade your wardrobe with quality assorted shirts, overcoats, and three-piece suits. As Desmond Merrion claims, ‘tailoring was in his blood’. A tailor with such dedication and proficiency in his art is hard to find.
This Savile Row tailor comes with extraordinary made-to measure-suits. William Westmancott may be bold and vivacious about his craft but that’s because he excels in it. Suits by William are often ranked the best in the world, with zero room for errors and William’s own commitment to customer’s needs.
A pretty recent name in the luxury industry, Alexander Amosu is an example of the exceptional African child who brought home business through the knowledge he gained from the West. Alexander Amosu brought luxury to Africa with his unique designs, instantly establishing his position in the luxury suits market. Besides having created diamond-studded suits for some of his most discerning clients, he is known to use the most expensive wool in the world derived from musk ox named quivik for his suits. This wool is hand-knitted with pashmina to make special shawls for India.
As more designers play with the idea of creating diamond-studded suits, one designer who must be mentioned is Stuart Hughes. The brand is famous for creating suits with 85 hours of tiresome handmade customisation, secured with intricately cut diamonds.
With a meticulous care for detail and use of precious material, Ettore de Cesare is a Rubinacci prodigy whose eponymous workshop in Vomero is a must-visit. Master tailor Luigi of the four-roomed workshop develops intricate designs with innumerable small stitches in Neapolitan style.
To bring true their philosophy, ‘The pleasure to put on the suit,’ Elia Caliendo uses its 50-year-old traditional craftsmanship to provide the client with that luxurious pleasure and comfort. Unique designs such as lateral cuts, double breasted with softer lapels, one and a half-breast without lateral cuts, make the Italian workshop exclusive.
The construction of an Ambrosi in Naples is scrupulous with accurate hand designs. It is famous for its 20 hand-sewn tacks around the top of the pair. The bottom edge of the curtain is also hand-sewn. Not only that, the handwork becomes more important when they pick-stitch the extra-long seam of the trouser. Such intricate handmade trousers will be a definite enhancement to your collection.
This, small Neapolitan shop run by cutter Fiorenzo Auricchio, uses completely manual techniques between cutting and sewing, giving each shirt its exclusive 25 points by hand and 32-man hours. The Italian bespoke tailor excels in collar shapes and sleeves.